Camps up to 4000 m. Less than 15km/day, river crossing, glacier stone walking , scree slopes.
Accustomed to northern Pakistan giant peaks, you will be surprised by these Tibetan style vast plains. It is a great alternative to the road that crosses the Indus gorges. By foot, by bike, hitch hiking, skiing or by jeep this route awaits you, green meadows and marmots are part of the program.
Mosquitoes
Mosquitoes are incredible in these places covered with snow 9 months in the year; these blood-sucking insects are aggressive. They must feel they have little time to live, and they are whole hordes attacking you, especially days without wind. They even managed to bite me while I was wearing two t-shirts! Be ready for the onslaught.
The route is easy, follow the track. Beware, there are several possible ways, take a good map and don’t get lost!
Be acclimatized, it is difficult to go down quickly, the plateau is long, it is above 4000 metres high.
By foot, by bike: see itinerary.
Skiing: this is a destination that becomes fashionable in winter, groups of cross-country skiing go there. There are several meters of snow and 3 to 4 days skiing between the park entrance and Chillim. The route is usually done in the Skardu Astore direction.
Hitch hiking: Take a vehicle up to Astore and sleep there. The next morning go to Chillim, there are guesthouses (300 rps / night) and people are friendly. We were told that a jeep was leaving early morning, inquire and good luck. Once in Chillim, go up towards the park and stop at the entrance office, 500 m above the village. Take your ticket (250 rps). All cars stop, even passenger jeeps, which apparently don’t exist when you are looking for them!
In July and August, there are many vehicles; it is a popular destination for Pakistanis tourists. You just have to wait, prepare to ready to share the cost, and don’t be more than two persons, seats are often limited. Ideally cross in two days, with a break right after the suspension bridge at the National Park Camp. After leaving the park, the road goes down to the Satpara Lake and Skardu. You can pitch your tent on site; in 2007 they were in the process to start a guesthouse. Same story in Chillim, stop at the ticket office, there is a checkpoint, cars stop there.
By special jeep: It is very expensive. Count between 12,000 to 16,000 rps for two days going from Gilgit to Skardu. It is possible to go to Astore and organize it for 9000 - 13,000 rps. Negotiate to know whether this price includes meals and housing for the driver. It is customary to add a tip between 300 to 500 rps.
From Skardu it is supposed to be possible to take a passenger jeep up to Chillim from the Hussaini Chowk; ask for Deosai Travel. That's the theory!
We have been unable to find this jeep. Between “there is none” or “it leaves when it is full but not right now “... this is what awaits you. For sure you will have the opportunity to cross it if you're in the middle of Deosai Plains, and you will be told, “yes, it leaves from Hussaini Chowk every morning”! Be patient and try to find the right person, remember that people mix up a passenger jeep for locals and a special jeep for tourists. Good luck...
July - mid September.
Food: Gilgit Skardu, Astore and Chillim where there is not much.
Day 1
Distance: 30 km
Length: 9 to 12 hours Possibility to go from Chillim to Cheosar Lake (it is super cold there!), And the next day, Cheosar Lake to the National Park Camp.
After the park entrance the road goes up crossing villages. Walk 15 km up to Chachor Pass 4250 m, right after the magnificent Cheosar Lake. Locals don’t like to sleep too close; the place would be bathed with evil spirits! Far from these superstitions the scenery is magnificent.
The trail shifts slightly to the left and after 7 to 8 km crosses a river. A little farther sight emerges on the south and you can see a beautiful mountain range. The trail (10 km) goes slowly down to the main river and its suspension bridge, which is on the Ministry of Tourism posters.
Possibility to pitch your tent or rent one for the night, 80 rps to pitch your tent, 150 rps for a tent / person. They cook.
Water : springs or rivers along the route
Day 2
Distance: 20 km
Length: 5 to 7 hours Possible to go from the National Park camp- National Park entrance, and then the next day National Park entrance - Satpara Lake, or to go directly to Burji La (Go with a guide who knows the route).
The track goes up gently along the river; you will hear the shrill whistling marmots all along.
10 km after, a bridge allows you to cross the river, the track climbs on the other side, and the exit of the park is around the corner. Another 10 km and you reach the check point and a guesthouse under construction.
The road that goes down to Skardu is very long, over 20 km and 2000 m negative altitude. At ¾ of the way appears Satpara lake with its island that will disappear in the coming years. There are many guesthouses where you can admire the site of the dam which is under construction.
From there many vehicles go down to Skardu, 30 minutes further.
Water : The river, and many springs.
Burji La Pass
A nice alternative to reach Deosai Plains from Skardu. Expect to walk 3 to 4 days to reach the track and then from 2 to 4 days to reach Chillim. Icing on the cake, you can see the K2 pyramid.
Guide from 1000 to 1200 rps / day. Porters, it costs 300 rps per stage without food, 350 rps with food. There are 5 to 6 stages. If you cross Deosai Plains, negotiate the number of stages with porters. Don’t forget a wapasi (money necessary for porters to return home), a little more than usual because the way is long up to Skardu.
Day 1
21 km 1500 m 8 to 11 hours
Take a taxi or something else and go as close as possible to the entrance of the valley that is just on the right of the Satpara lake. Enter the valley and follow the trail climbing. It's very long and very hot in summer! Several possibilities to camp along the way, the one to be reached is Wozal Adar, it is bare.
Day 2
11 km 1100 m - 800 7 to 10 hours
The camp is located in the opening of the upper valley. Go up along the névés up to the pass; if the weather is mild there is a spectacular view of K2. Go down next to several glacial lakes. Continue until the confluence with another river, camp right after, surrounded by beautiful meadows.
Day 3
12 km -200 m 4 to 5 hours
Follow the river until you reach the track.
Water : springs or rivers in the camps and on the way
WARNING Treks described in this rubric have all been walked by the author, itineraries are detailed daily, maps and pictures illustrate them. On no account these sheets will replace the experience of a local guide; they are complementary and should be taken as such! Never go alone, without warning anybody! The course of some trails might change from one year to another, landslides, mud slides are numerous enough.
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