Camps up to 5000 m. Less than 25 km/day, river crossing, glacier ice walking, dangerous scree slopes.
Two mythical passes at the Chinese border. Less than a century ago, they were the final frontier of the British Empire, as shows a fort built at the bottom of the valley. A trek little attended, among the most interesting of Pakistan.
Landscapes vary between sharp needles of the Karakoram and the more eroded relief of the Pamir. Kilik is to visit first, it goes over 4800 m; it is very open and crossed over its entire width by a fence. Mintaka is the less popular of the two, with luck you can see wolves or bears, and marmots are legions.
Easy to very difficult: There are no technical difficulties, the path is well marked, many opportunities to camp. It all depends how much time you have. We have walked it in 5 days, 115 km and two passes over 4700 m, it is better to be acclimatized. The ideal is between 6 and 8 days.
5 days (very difficult) to negotiate with his team: Misgar - Murkushi / Murkushi - Sad Buldi - Kilik visit - Sad Buldi / Sad buldi - Murkushi / Murkushi - Gul Kawja - Mintaka visit - Gul Kawja / Gul Kawja - Misgar.
6 days (difficult) trail classic Misgar - Murkushi / Murkushi - Sad Buldi - Kilik visit - Sad Buldi / Sad buldi - Murkushi / Murkushi - Gul Kawja / Mintaka visit - Gul Kawja - Murkushi / Murkushi - Misgar
7 days (moderate): Misgar - Murkushi / Murkushi - Sad Buldi / Kilik visit / Sad buldi - Murkushi / Murkushi - Gul Kawja / Mintaka visit - Gul Kawja - Murkushi / Murkushi - Misgar
8 days (easy) trail comfort: Misgar - Murkushi / Murkushi - Sad Buldi / Kilik visit / Sad buldi - Murkushi / Murkushi - Gul Kawja / Mintaka visit / Gul Kawja - Murkushi / Murkushi - Misgar
This list may give an idea for planning the route. These camps are not the only ones and there are endless possibilities. It is your own choice.
Guides and porters :
A small word for daring trekkers, the villagers of Misgar do not want to leave you alone on the mountain. There are two reasons for this: You get lost or something else (encounter with a bear!), they will be held accountable. They do not want a tourist crossing the border and being caught out by the guards of the Chinese Army; it would close the sector and condemn an emerging tourism. Understand and obey it. Guide: count from 1000 to 1200 rps / day, does not include tips. Porters: The inhabitants of Misgar are used to carry weight on a donkey (so great!). It is the same rate as a porter. There are 13 stages return up to two passes base camps, add the price of a stage for your porter when he brings you to pass, or 15 stages. It costs 300 rps without food, 350 with food. A small problem is to be understood in Misgar. If you don’t find anybody speaking English, wait until the evening when teachers working in Sost return home.
To get there :
From Sost, a special costs around 1000 rps, negotiate. Some vehicles return to Misgar, they charge you less, 150 to 200 rps. A passenger jeep leaves around 12, make enquiries, the best is to meet the driver (it works). From Misgar, vehicles start at around 5:30 / 6 am, they bimp through the village, count around 50 rps. It is possible to organize a special up to the fort, it saves you walk 1h30. In two words you inquire and negotiate, same for your return, make an appointment. Count around 1000 rps.
To sleep :
Still no guesthouse in 2007, despite what is written in some guides! So, don’t look. Two possibilities, either you sleep at someone’s house, counting 400 to 600 rps / person, full board, or you plant your tent at the post office, there is a field just behind. Still, ask the owners, normally there is no problem. The inhabitants of Misgar are Ismaelies, and their kindness is unbelievable, and I choose the words. Unfortunately, too much kindness kills sometimes kindness. Do not be surprised if during the meal that you are served the whole family comes to see you eat. You can easily end up with 6 or 7 people in front of you, contemplating you throughout your meal. You drink a sip of water; they pour you some more immediately. We were also woken up at 4h30 in the morning, to make sure we take our breakfast before leaving for the trek… it's a little hard!
From June to mid September
Resupplying : Sost, don’t forget anything because in Misgar grocery stores are almost empty.
Day 1
Misgar - Murkushi Departure: 3050 m Arrival: 3600 m -170 m + 700 m Distance: 21 km Length: 6 to 8 hours
Cross Misgar on an unsealed road going up the valley. After 30 minutes, reach the river Dilisang. 45 minutes later a bridge will lead you on the other side. 20 minutes walk and you reach the fort, the last frontier of the British Indian Empire. Go up the valley, passing beside a white building and a transformer. Shortly after the road goes along the river, before crossing over a bridge and going to Khan Wali (camp possible). Go up on the terrace and through a beautiful area at the bottom of a landslide.
At the end, go down, cross a little stream and go to the bottom of a new landslide; that’s where we suffered a hail of stones, beware! The well-marked path goes up gently, leave it and take a left to cross at the level of a clearly visible bridge. The portion that follows is hardly feasible in places in the late afternoon; the river swells and goes above the trail. Continue 25 minutes more until Arbab Ebul, a true oasis. The following part is punctuated by green spaces (3 possible camps) separated by 20 minutes walk up to Murukshi. Between Lup jangal and Murukshi there is a little more walking, 45 minutes.
Murukshi camp is immense, located at the junction of two valleys; it offers great views over the surrounding peaks. Several possibilities for planting the tent, whether you pitch it just arriving in the meadow on the left or a little farther in the shade of the willows.
Water : The camp is crossed by numerous canals, water is brackish.
Day 2
Murkushi - Sad Buldi Departure: 3600 m Arrival: 4100 m -55 m + 600 m Distance: 12 km Length: 5 to 6 hours
Cross Murukshi plain going on the left, cross over the bridge and go up the valley coming on your left. The path is well marked, it is steep. 45 minutes later, beautiful grassland, it’s Ship Shek. Continue to climb 30 minutes up to a door for livestock. The following part is more pleasant, below the last giants of the Karakoram, a first view of the Pamir. The progression is per stages, walking on a plain, then a slope and it starts again. Many opportunities to camp are available along the route. Fill your water bottles in one of the many springs encountered on the way; in Sad Buldi it is shady.
From the door to the bottom of the valley, it is endless; after more than 3 hours comes Sad Buldi, at the foot of the pass you can guess on the right. There are many spots for tents. You can observe rock carvings showing a significant human activity. For the route to Kilik see extras.
Water : A stream crosses the camp, shady water.
Day 3
Sad Buldi - Murkushi Departure: 4100 m Arrival: 3600 m - 600 m + 55 m Distance: 12 km Length: 4 to 5 hours Repeat path in the opposite direction.
Way back
Day 4
Murkushi - Gul Kawja Departure: 3600 m Arrival: 4100 m - 90 m + 610 m Distance: 12 km Length: 5 to 6 hours
Go up the plain, cross the bridge, and turn right onto a well marked path. The climb takes 45 minutes to 1 hour, watch for rock falling in the landslides. Go through a door, shortly after the valley gets flatter, the view is magnificent, probably the most beautiful valley that we have seen throughout northern Pakistan. The bottom is lined with short grass, waterfalls off all sides; it is a real vision of the Garden of Eden.
Cross the first plain before rising into blocks, stop at the foot of a majestic waterfall. A perfect location for a camp, the creek is a real paradise for fishermen; hundreds of trouts inhabit these waters. Go through the blocks to lead to a new stage of greenery. In the middle of the crossing, comes the hut of Yatungoz Harai. The trail climbs 45 minutes until a scree slope which blocks a whole section of the valley. A way is loosely marked on the side of the slope, follow it. The upper part of the valley contrasts with the rest, Mintaka Pass is visible at the bottom, on the left. Cross scree slopes bypassing primarily on the right, before returning to the valley on the left, watch out for falling rocks. At the river level, the path is more practicable; follow it up to Kawja Gul, a camp marked by ruins. See extras for Mintaka Pass
Water : A watercourse 100 metres from the camp, shady water.
Day 5
Gul Kawja - Murkushi Departure: 4100 m Arrival: 3600 m - 610 m + 90m Distance: 12 km Length: 4 to 5 hours
Day 6
Misgar - Murkushi Departure: 3600 m Arrival: 3050 m - 700 m + 170 m Distance: 21 km Length: 5 to 7 hours
Kilik pass
Departure: 4100 m Arrival: 4820 m - 20 m + 530 m Return Distance: 12 km Length return: 4 to 5 hours
From Sad Buldi, turn right and go along the river. After 1 km it becomes easier to cross at the junction with another watercourse. Either cross back to the RB (right bank), the path is a little easier, or continue to the LB (left bank).
In the RB, cross and go under the cliff before rising back up on the meadows. At the level of a green plain which ends on a small gorge, take slightly on the left and follow the cairns in the steep part that leads to the pass.
In the LB, cross the stream coming from the right and go up a steep slope (300m vertical drop) before returning along the landslide towards the main river. Cross it at the level of shepherds’ huts.
Cross the plain which lies at the level of the pass, up to a huge fence blocking the valley. It gives an unusual air at the place. This is Kilik Pass, a pillar marks the Pakistani border.
Water : Rivers all along the way.
Mintaka pass
Departure: 4100 m Arrival: 4720 m - 30 m + 510 m Return Distance: 12 km Length return: 4 to 5 hours
Exit Kawja Gul, and cross the river that comes from the left. The path is well marked by cairns. Stay on the edge of the glacier. Go up at the bottom of a cliff to escape on the lateral moraine, the trail disappears at times under scree slopes. Cross the edge of the glacier over 1.5 km before exiting on the left and attack the grassy slope.
The following part is more pleasant, in the greenery. The Silk Road is still visible in some places, small walls support the way. Continue an hour under the strident whistling of marmots, and reach the pass, the view of the glacier is superb.
To reach the border, you have to go on the other side of the pass. Cross a first plateau, before rising up and moving a second one. The border is located just after; don’t go over, the guards of the Chinese army watch the grain. This is one of the most beautiful pass across Pakistan, on one side, the Karakoram, on the other side, the Pamir.
Sortir de Gul Kawja, et traverser la rivière qui provient de la gauche. Le chemin est bien marqué par des cairns. Rester sur le bord du glacier. Remonter au bas d’une falaise pour sortir sur la moraine latérale, le sentier disparaît par endroits dans des éboulis. Traverser le bord du glacier sur plus 1.5 km avant de sortir sur la gauche et d’attaquer la pente herbeuse.
Water : Camp, way up, on the pass.
WARNING Treks described in this rubric have all been walked by the author, itineraries are detailed daily, maps and pictures illustrate them. On no account these sheets will replace the experience of a local guide; they are complementary and should be taken as such! Never go alone, without warning anybody! The course of some trails might change from one year to another, landslides, mud slides are numerous enough.