Camps up to 5000 m. Less than 25 km/jour, river crossing, glacier ice walking, dangerous scree slopes.
If you want to evolve into a range of mountains, flirt with huge glaciers, all easily accessible from Hunza, this trek is for you.
A trail full of surprises will lead you to Rush Phari Lake. These reflect the calm waters surrounding peaks. The ascent of a peak at over 5000 metres will make you discover the valley of Hispar. If the weather is mild, you might get a view of K2 pyramid.
The main route described below, is moderate. The crossing of the Bualtar glacier requires a good sense of observation, the rapid ascent to the lake and the peak a good acclimatization to the altitude. Prefer a guide for crossing the Bualtar, and for exstras described further.
Guide : 1000 to 1200 rps / day, not including tips.
Porters cost 300 rps / day without food, 350 including food. There are 8 stages. For the same price you can try to get a donkey, it is better for the transport of luggage.
How to get there:
From Hunza, go to Ganesh, remaining on the KKH right at the level of a sharp bend. Some passengers leave from there up to Hoper. Get there before 10 pm, count 100 rps. Organizing a special costs around 1000 rps.
From April to November. The tents are installed for the summer season.
Resupplying : Karimabad, Aliabad, Gilgit.
Day 1
Departure: 2800 m Arrival: 3300 m Distance: 11 km Length: 5 to 7 hours
Go to the end of the village of Hoper, go down a path that goes to the Bualtar glacier, after a few switchbacks, you find yourself at the foot of the lateral moraine. A very well-marked trail brings you on the glacier. From there you should aim for a path on the other side that climbs up approximately at the same height. Some cairns barely visible are scattered on the path. The other moraine is much more chaotic and might be a problem since the morphology of the glacier is changing from year to year.
As soon as you pass this area, go up on the other side. After fifty meters with a first flat part with a hut, it is not Shishkin yet. Go up another 100 m up to a group of shepherds’ huts, the road forks, turn left. Go just a little above the houses. Do not take the path that seems most obvious and that goes up immediately. After a hundred meters, it becomes much more pronounced, snaking between conglomerate reliefs. 20 minutes later you reach a small pass, where Barpu glacier is visible.
Much less impressive than the previous one, the trek marks is well established, 30-minute crossing. On the other side you go up towards the left, passing through a slit. You reach a valley, do not go to the bottom, stay on the right side. After passing a tiny shepherd’s hut, the valley gets flatter. Continue for a good hour up to Barpurgram.
From there, go up along the Talweg on one of many trails marked by goats. A new flat part appears a little bit greener than the previous one with Mulharai in the background. A little less than an hour is necessary to get there, continue between the cypress groves and wild roses. After twenty minutes you are along a creek, trees are a little more scattered and the area is good for camping, you have reached Bericho Kor. Attention, don’t go after a huge block of 10 metres high on your left down a grayish scree. Built at its core, this is where the path that climbs to Rush Lake Phari starts.
Water : On the Bualtar glacier, as well as in various camps crossed.
Day 2
Departure: 3300 m Arrival: 4700 m Distance: 6 km Length: 4 to 6 hours
Bypass the rock described above and go up along the fairly steep trail that goes without interruption up to the peak, 730 m higher. Coming on this point of view, stop a few moments on a rocky promontory located about fifty yards from where the path leads. Do not continue straight, climb the hill in front of the promontory, perpendicular to the ridge. Two minutes after you find yourself on a grassy slope, with in the distance (800m), slightly on your left a small valley, surmounted by a pass.
This is where you must go, and among many paths find your way. The last part is pretty steep, you will reach on a plain a little wider. Dominated by a peak on his left you guess another pass after a broad valley lined with blocks in its upper part. Aim for the second pass. After ¾ of an hour you reach it, just left of the base of the peak that rises 300 m higher. A plateau becomes obvious, announcing what comes next. 20 minutes later, the lake is revealed, reflecting the peaks that surround, the view is magnificent. Bypass it on the right and set up your tents at the level of the pass or, if you want to be quiet and sheltered from the wind, near a tributary located 200 m further.
Water : Rush Phari Lake
Day 3
Departure: 4700 m Arrival: 2800 m Distance: 14 km Length: 5 to 7 hours
Return to Hoper.
Rush Phari peak 5100 m
Departure: 4650 m Arrival: 5100 m Distance return: 5 km Length: 3 to 5 hours
From the lake, go immediately up following the ridge that goes to great peaks. A little above the top of Rush Phari is visible, beyond a hill topped by a large cairn. Head towards it, then go down slightly. Rush Phari is the first peak right in front of you, go to its base. Be careful, many blocks are unstable throughout the wa y.
At the foot of the slope, a path is fairly well marked by cairns, it is steep and brings you straight to the summit. The view is spectacular; you will feel like touching the surrounding mountains, overlooking the valley of Hispar from nearly 2000 m. By good weather K2 is visible beyond Hispar La.
Water : no water.
Upper part of Barpu glacie
Departure: 4650 m Arrival: 2800 m Distance: 29 km Length: 2 to 4 days
Cross two glaciers, Sumayar and Miar, this upper part contrasts with the lower Barpu. At least two days will be necessary for good walkers to make this option to come back. A guide is more than preferable especially because of the two glaciers. The descent from Rush Phari Lake down to Phari Phari is problematic; if you miss the right path you are likely to end up canyoneering.
Water : Water in the camps, on glaciers crossed.
WARNING Treks described in this rubric have all been walked by the author, itineraries are detailed daily, maps and pictures illustrate them. On no account these sheets will replace the experience of a local guide; they are complementary and should be taken as such! Never go alone, without warning anybody! The course of some trails might change from one year to another, landslides, mud slides are numerous enough.