Camps up to 4000 m. Less than 15km/day, river crossing, glacier stone walking , scree slopes.
Right in front of Karimabad, the cornerstone of Pakistan tourism, a valley that is rarely visited. We were surprised to learn that Chumar Bakor minors had never seen a woman in this village, Pascale was apparently the first!
Visiting this valley is a strong human experience, the highest aqua marine mines in the world, a glacier among the most chaotic that we have seen in Pakistan, a little-known panorama of Karimabad and Ultar. There is a pass that links to Nagyr Valley and brings you so close to the Diran it feels you could almost touch it, and there are as well as new routes to open. Its verticality recalls a little Nangmah Valley. The discovery is done in two or three short days. What else do you want?
Easy to go for a return trip to Chumar Bakor mines. The path is very well marke, miners have used it for 25 years. Be acclimatized or stop for a night where the unsealed road ends. It is moderate to difficult for Sulpultur Nala pass. Right after the pass, a descent in scree slope, stay in the middle, risk of falling stones on the sides.
There would be two other passes to reach the valley Nagyr. It has never been used by foreigners, at least for one of them. Unfortunately we did not have the names or information about them. Inquire with locals, take a guide who knows the routes used by hunters.
A pass would be easier than Sulpultur Nala, another requires to cross a glacier. For Sulpultur Nala, the local told us no problems, it's easy, and you will be Nagyr in 3 hours from Mamu Bar. Well, it took us 9 hours and the descent is dangerous at some parts. I think that even running it would take anyway more than 4 hours. So, in the end, the other two passes must be much harder than what they told us, even extremely hard for the one where there is a glacier to cross. Do not rely on feedback from minors, which tell you that everything is easy and expect a hard and long route.
Guide : From 1000 to 1200 rps / day without tips or wapasi. Porters: count 300 rps / stage without food 350 rps / including food. When we travelled this route we were the only ons since the end of the 90’s when a French guy came to make a video report on the mines… So let’s say that nobody comes to visit the valley. For stages, you will define how much there are with a guide and porters. You should be able to negotiate a donkey or a horse, they are numerous. Recruit in Karimabad.
To get there : From Aliabad, take a bus or minivan which leaves at 6am or around 10am when it is full for Sumayar, right on the other side (30 rps / person). In Sumayar, organize a vehicle, some days minors go there and it is possible to share the cost of the vehicle with them. For a special jeep, count 1000 rps. If you make the round trip to the mines they can call a vehicle from Chumar Bakor, same for the price. From Hoper count 1000 rps for a special, and about 100 rps for a passenger jeep. From Nagyr Bazar count 700 rps for a special to Karimabad and around 50 rps for a passenger jeep. To walk the road is not what is most pleasant, count 7 to 10-hour walk to the end of the unsealed road. There area about 14 km and over 1000 m to climb.
To sleep : There is nothing for the tourist dated that there is none! In Chumar Bakor, minors welcome you in their smoky huts; almost 4500 metres above sea level ... Take a big breath or a tent.
July - mid September.
Shopping : Karimabad, Aliabad.
Day 1
Sumayar - Chumar Bakor Departure: 2100 m Arrival: 4400 m - 20 m + 2300 m + 1150 walking Distance: 26 km including 14 km by jeep Length: 5 to 6 hours
The path starts where the jeep stops. It winds 30-minute on the lateral moraine up to a camp where you can sleep (spring water). The view of the glacier is spectacular, it is an ice fall of more than 500 m high, pieces fall all the time and break on all sides.
The path climbs switchbacks to get up to the top of the glacier. Then it gets very steep, you have to climb in the middle of the cliff on an aerial path! The entrance to Chumar Bakor is marked by two cairns, the slope gets softer eventually, and goes along the valley going downstream. 30 to 40 minutes extra to reach Chumar Bakor, the minors’ village. Summer time they are 350 to extract aqua marines from the mountain. You will surely have the opportunity to visit the mines. Water : One spring in Chumar bakor
Day 2
Chumar Bakor - Hoper Departure: 4400 m Arrival: 2800 m -1900 m + 355 m Distance: 16 km Length: 8 to 10 hours
Up to Sulputur Nala Pass 4750 m -10 + 355 1:30 to 2:30
Exit the village up the valley with Diran on the right in all its majesty. The slope is steady after a good half an hour; the pass is visible in the distance on the left. It takes an hour to reach Sulpultur Nala, the view is superb on the surrounding peaks; on the other side Lupgar Sar, Gulmit tower, behind the Diran.
The first part of the descent is tough, between unstable rocks. 45 minutes later, go through an ice tongue going on the left, a fall would make you slide over 100 m, take your time, if you have any crampons, they can be useful at this point. Beware of falling rocks on the sides, cliffs are unstable, we have seen at least 4 going down on this part, and they go far away. Immediately after the snow tongue, the slope softens slightly, after building on a flat part. Starting from this point continue in the middle during 500 m, the slope resume, and on the left side a valley begins to form, and cross it and go on the left side, a trail is vaguely outlined in the green.
A new deflection reveals green meadows where yaks graze. From there it is more pleasant and the trail is well marked. Go down to the bottom of the valley, then resume after 20 minutes slightly on the left flank, the path goes down in landings, up to a new viewpoint on the heights of Nagyr. This is steep again, target fields at the bottom of the village perched on the hill. Go down along paths used by sheep, it is steep.
Arriving at the bottom go around the hill of the village, and take the main way that goes down to cross the main river of the valley. It's steep until the creek just after a flat part leading into the hills of Nagyr. Enter the inhabited area by shifting to the right, not straight down unless you want to walk to the Nagyr bazaar. Walk 45 to 50 minutes up to Hoper, hence many jeeps go up to Karimabad.
In the inhabited area kids can be particularly painful, and can sometimes throw you stones. You will always find a someone to help you get rid of them, as a consolation prize you will surely get offered apricots or other seasonal fruit.
Water : Chumar Bakor en route to the pass. In the middle of the descent.
Viewpoint on the Hunza Valle
Minors have told us about a beautiful point of view across the valley Hunza 1 hour from the mines. Inquire with them.
WARNING Treks described in this rubric have all been walked by the author, itineraries are detailed daily, maps and pictures illustrate them. On no account these sheets will replace the experience of a local guide; they are complementary and should be taken as such! Never go alone, without warning anybody! The course of some trails might change from one year to another, landslides, mud slides are numerous enough.